March 03, 2016

Farewell To All My Travels, 拜拜, Баяртай, До свидания!, Дапабачэньня,Nägemist, Uzredzēšanos, Viso gero, Dozobaczenia, Naviděnou,AufWiedersehen, Arrivederci, Tchau, Beannachdleat/leibh



      Love to all the trains, in all the cities, in all the world...



   Love to all the cities, in all the countries, in all the world...

New York City
Beijing, China
Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia
Irkutsk, Russia
Yekaterinburg, Russia
Moscow, Russia
St Petersburg, Russia
Tallinn, Estonia
Riga, Latvia
Vilnius, Lithuania
Gdansk, Poland
Krakow, Poland
Prague, Czech Republic
Vienna, Austria
Salzburg, Austria
Verona, Italy
Florence, Italy
Bari, Italy
Trani, Italy
Alberobello, Italy
Putignano, Italy
Lecce, Italy
Matera, Italy
Naples, Italy
Palermo, Sicily
Porto, Portugal
Coimbra, Portugal
Obidos, Portugal
Sintra, Portugal
Lisbon, Portugal
London, England
Glasgow, Scotland
Edinburg, Scotland
New York City
     
  Love to my dear readers in all the cities, in all the countries, in all the world...

             

March 02, 2016

Winterfell & Hairy Coos

The Scottish Highlands really are wild & gorgeous & mysterious & dramatic & romantic. 

   The weather changes every five minutes -- rain, sun, clouds, wind, fog -- & back again 

                                         Even a rainbow!!!

                  The Highlands are rolling & lovely & bucolic...an inspiration to Robert Burns...

My Heart's In The Highlands

Farewell to the Highlands, farewell to the North,
The birth-place of Valour, the country of Worth;
Wherever I wander, wherever I rove,
The hills of the Highlands for ever I love.

My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here,
My heart's in the Highlands, a-chasing the deer;
Chasing the wild-deer, and following the roe,
My heart's in the Highlands, wherever I go.

Farewell to the mountains, high-cover'd with snow,
Farewell to the straths and green vallies below;
Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods,
Farewell to the torrents and loud-pouring floods.
My heart's in the Highlands.

                   ...and hard & forbidding...an inspiration to Sir Walter Scott...

One hour of life, crowded to the full with glorious action, and filled with noble risks, is worth whole years of those mean observances of paltry decorum, in which men steal through existence, like sluggish waters through a marsh, without either honour or observation.


     ...and damp & fragrant & mysterious...an inspiration to Robert Louis Stevenson...

It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air that emanation from old trees, that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit.


...and full of lochs (lakes), where the wind always roils the water, making it look black...an inspiration to Violet Jacob...
Oh tell me fit was on your mind ye roarin Norland wind?
As ye come blawin frae the land that’s never frae ma mind.
Ma feet they traivel England but I’m deein for the North.”
“Ma man, I saw the siller tides rin up the Firth o Forth.”

       ...and home to ancient castles...no decorative elements here...an inspiration to Hollywood...

...it's where Outlander, Monty Python, & the pilot for Game of Thrones were filmed...this is Winterfell!

The Highlands would not be The Highlands without these huge, hardy, bedraggled, lumbering, dirty, & somehow utterly beguiling creatures called "Hairy Coos" (Scottish for "Highland Cows"). These used to be as numerous as bison were in America. Like bison, hairy coos were decimated by occupiers, along with the humans who depended on them to live. Now the ones that survive are kept mostly as a legacy breed on farms. Their milk is poor & their meat is stringy because they prefer brambles & thistles over grass, so they are not desirable to modern farmers. Instead, they live a good life, amusing tourists & keeping the Highland landscape true to its roots.


We were privileged on this tour to feed a little brown bread to three hairy coos who live on a rural farm way up in the Highlands.

That's a big tongue about to slurp a piece of bread from my hand!

These three are females & will have babies in a few weeks. Imagine a hairy coo baby!! -- cuteness overload. Here's a video if you want to see some:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yI1lhfw8gXs







Scottish Is a Foreign Language

The passageway on the Caledonia Express train between London & Scotland is so narrow that a man got stuck as we were boarding. He wasn't even particularly fat. It took the engineer & two attendants to push & pull until he popped like a cork into his cabin. I observed this from further down along the car. There was much conversation between the engineer & attendants & I couldn't understand what they said. I attributed this to the distance between us, my hearing, & the fact that it was midnight, the engine was on & the whistles blowing impatiently.

This passageway is made for underfed supermodels

But that wasn't it. A little later, one of the attendants -- a friendly, busy (very thin) woman -- came in my cabin to tell me about...well, I'm not sure what. She talked for five straight minutes, very fast & animatedly, showing me various elements of the cabin...the tiny built-in sink, the windowshade, etc. I watched her face the entire time, astounded by the fact that, though she was speaking English & just a few inches from me, I couldn't understand a thing! I caught only three words "...nurse my hangover...", which I believe related to a birthday party she was attending the next day. The language barrier was more opaque than Italian, because there at least there I could fathom the occasional word root. Welcome to Wee Bonney Scotland!

            The fields on the way to Edinburgh are green with winter grasses for livestock

               When you turn a corner, you never know when you'll spot a mini-castle


 Or a major-castle. Scottish castles look exactly like castles in movies & TV shows about medieval times.

Edinburg is dark, but not gloomy, with pointy spires everywhere.

             It's the darkest-hued city I've seen, yet light & merry in spirit

                            Swank lunch spots are empty in winter

       This did not stop a chilly traveler from going in for an artful bowl of tomato soup

As you wander, Edinburgh is full of interesting sights. This is a street performer whose performance is standing there with his pet owl. Very Harry Potter!

             You know you're alive when you get a long, eyeball-to-eyeball look like this

This man had a Houdini act. He wiggled & jiggled his way out of a straight jacket & chains. There was a 2 year old child in the crowd who found this incredibly funny. After each sentence he said, as he paused for breath, she giggled loud & long. Every time he shook his chains or struggled against the straight jacket, she howled with laughter. Hilarity ensued all around.

                   Scotland wants you to know that it has gorgeous pastries too

  You don't often see a church converted to a coffeeshop & marketplace for tourist goods

                      You do see that Scotland is dead serious about its whiskey


This is Edinburg as seen from a whorl in a Victorian glass window. International travel can be mind-bending!


February 28, 2016

Glasgow Architects & Artists All Go To Heaven

Scotland's not all that interested in its ancient times. There's little remaining evidence of medieval life in Glasgow, which is a city in love with its red & cream-colored sandstone Victorian & Edwardian buildings. They are gorgeous! Not in a cake-and-ice-cream way as in St. Petersburg & Florence. They are decorative, yes, but earthy too, because of their color (which until recent years was black from coal-burning smoke...now they have been cleaned & are back to their original colors).

                          Hundreds of buildings in Glasgow look like this

                              They are so warm & glowing, even in early morning light

            Sometimes sandstone is pastel

                   This churchyard is so serene & quiet...it feels like time has stood still

These were the "upstairs-downstairs" houses of wealthy Glasgow families & their servants

              In the past 10 years, Glasgow has been daring with its modern architecture

This building that looks like an inflatable space ship is an arena that glows different colors at night. Rod Stewart was the first musician to perform here. You can see the tiny people in front.

                  Next to it is a building affectionately called "The Armadillo"

A museum's imaginative creation of a mythical "haggis" (the snout of an opossum, the ears of a long-haired dog, the fur ruff of a fox, & the feathered body of a duck??), next to a real haggis. Haggis, defined as "a Scottish dish consisting of a sheep's or calf's offal mixed with suet, oatmeal, and seasoning and boiled in a bag, traditionally one made from the animal's stomach." Offal?? Having been traumatized by mutton in Mongolia, I'm not sure I'm prepared to try "offal."

The "Glasgow Boys" created a style of painting that was startling loose & modern for the times

                               They concentrated on pastoral scenes 

      And romanticized, storybook scenes

             These cows with fetching bangs are emblematic in Scotland

      No one had seen anything like the almost abstract depiction of landscapes & animals

      Or this rapturous painting of Isadora Duncan

           The sandstone buildings of Glasgow are fitting for people who love red


                Red in all its glorious forms

Mother Nature is an artist too. This is not a painting...these are leaves on the ground under my feet, tipped with frost in the morning.


February 26, 2016

Goodbye Europe


Beautiful Europe...

                                                       I bid thee farewell

                                          Goodbye red rooftops....

        ...little churches...

           ...and big churches....

                                       ....pretty paintings.....

                                             ....and gruesome paintings...

               ....ceilings......

                                     ...and floors...


   ...thousands of Jesus & Mary statues & paintings...

                                       ...sunshine...

                                       ...and storms...

                                    ...high places...

             ...and low...

        ....beautiful architecture...

                   ...calm statues...

                                       ...and violent statues...

                                          ...landscapes...

                                         ...and waterways...

                         ...stairs.....

                      ...and more stairs...

                                                ...square cobblestones...

                                         ....round ones...

                                               ...hodgepodge sizes...

                                                ...ovals...

                                         ...and slabs...

                                           ..favorite Atlas statues...

                                           ...other favorite Atlas statues...

                                            ...humor...

                       ...and anguish (me with concentration camp dirt on my boots)...

                                                ...hotel bathroom sinks...

                                 ...people who smile...

               ...and talk to pigeons...

         ...babies in gigantic snow suits...

                                        ...people who take selfies...

            ...soldiers who guard places...

...Italian women who have hair just like mine & let it fly free...

                                    ...and dreamy people who are silver foxes...

                                          ...nourishing winter food....

                 ...vitamin food...

                                       ...smooth golden soup...

                                             ...mussels & other fishy savories...

     ...cocktails that give your daily allowance of fruit...

                                      ...and goulash of the gods....

                                   ...eternal winter...

                                        ...and eternal spring.