I took the scenic route from Salzburg to Innsbruck, involving two trains, one going through the Brenner Pass.
This perfectly captures what it's like gazing out the window from a train
Swarovski crystals are manufactured near here, so stores sell fantastic creations made from them. You have to walk up a staircase made of crystals just to get into this store.
What is Tyrolean culture? I hunt down a folk art museum. The guard tells me that they argue all the time about which objects are worth displaying & which are not. They have many cake pans & lanterns & items devoted to carding wool & weaving.
Spinning wheels are always cool
I have seen many of these in palaces & museums all around Europe. They are ceramic heaters, the system that came after fireplaces & before modern heating. Wealthy people had small false doors hidden behind the unit. Servants could then fill the heater with wood or coal out of sight, so as not to offend the sensibilities of guests.
Adjoining the folk museum is a church...not really a church...a shrine dedicated to Emperor Maximillian, progenitor of the Hapsburgs. He was supposedly a modest person, though this self-designed hallowed temple to himself would suggest otherwise.
Clearly, he did struggle with the modesty/vanity part of his life. He explicitly left instructions for his death portrait to portray him exactly as he was at death...no teeth, eyes sunken, skin shriveled.
This, however, is the black marble tomb he designed years before his death, with carved figures all around the side depicting his marriage, battles, losses, victories, captures, recaptures. All along the sides are rows of larger-than-life German Renaissance black cast iron statutes of family members & kings & emperors he considered his forebearers. They look like giant chess pieces.
No comments:
Post a Comment