January 19, 2016

Innsbruck, Austria Comes in a Poor Second Place to Mother Nature

I took the scenic route from Salzburg to Innsbruck, involving two trains, one going through the Brenner Pass. 

             This perfectly captures what it's like gazing out the window from a train

      Sometimes when you go around a bend, the train leans over & so does the world

    These frosted trees are way, way up on a high mountain, just before the end of the tree line

            This adorable line of buildings in Innsbruck looks like a painted backdrop

 Swarovski crystals are manufactured near here, so stores sell fantastic creations made from them. You have to walk up a staircase made of crystals just to get into this store.

                           You are greeted by a giant bug made of crystals

           And a dragon

                                  The use of crystals in fashion design

What is Tyrolean culture? I hunt down a folk art museum. The guard tells me that they argue all the time about which objects are worth displaying & which are not. They have many cake pans & lanterns & items devoted to carding wool & weaving. 

                                     Spinning wheels are always cool


                                These figures are from the Mood Disorders shelf

There are many photos & manikins devoted to native dress

                 Classic milkmaid

      Marriage vows

   These are items from a photographer's studio, showing his canvas backdrops & manikins

                     Hmmmm...what kind of scenario is this manikin used for?

I have seen many of these in palaces & museums all around Europe. They are ceramic heaters, the system that came after fireplaces & before modern heating. Wealthy people had small false doors hidden behind the unit. Servants could then fill the heater with wood or coal out of sight, so as not to offend the sensibilities of guests.

Many are beautiful works of ceramic art

                               Extremely complex miniature dioramas

Most are religious in nature, but that core is surrounded by intricate depictions of village life

Adjoining the folk museum is a church...not really a church...a shrine dedicated to Emperor Maximillian, progenitor of the Hapsburgs. He was supposedly a modest person, though this self-designed hallowed temple to himself would suggest otherwise. 

This is one of many busts he had made of himself 

Clearly, he did struggle with the modesty/vanity part of his life. He explicitly left instructions for his death portrait to portray him exactly as he was at death...no teeth, eyes sunken, skin shriveled.

This, however, is the black marble tomb he designed years before his death, with carved figures all around the side depicting his marriage, battles, losses, victories, captures, recaptures. All along the sides are rows of larger-than-life German Renaissance black cast iron statutes of family members & kings & emperors he considered his forebearers. They look like giant chess pieces.

                                       The ladies of the family 

                               All the men are dressed in suits of armor

              I like to get up close & personal with statues...it gives you a whole different feeling

Still, Innsbruck, sorry to say, but you cannot compare to the beauty of the world rushing by

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